What types of different products are we talking about here that you can print on? And if they are going to pursue a machine with our ink, they need to know if it’s going to work out, if it’s going to be a feasible option for them. And the reason why we do this is because customers want to know if their bottles are going to match with our ink. Matthew: So, typically adhesion testing is just testing the abrasion resistance of ink on a substrate. John: Matt, what is adhesion testing and why do you do it? Today we’re talking about adhesion testing methods. John Maher: Hi, I’m John Maher, and I’m here today with Matthew Macioci, Digital Sample Technician, that Inkcups, a leading supplier and manufacturer of industrial inkjet printing equipment, pad printing equipment, inks and accessories. Here’s what you should know about the types of ink adhesion testing methods used for digital printing inks. There are many types of ink adhesion testing methods, each best suited to different kinds of printing methods and substrates. Workflow Assistance & Inkjet Linearization.OUR DIGITAL PRINTING AND PAD PRINTING SERVICES.
Find a printer that fits your needs Help me Choose.I recommend blowing hard on the models just after application to remove any 'webbing' in crooked arms and so forth. I think it would work well on metal armour.Īpplication of the stain: I needed to wipe off some excess around the elephants' feet, which was easy after a few minutes. It was better on the elephants themselves. I was originally worried that a brown shade might make the figures look like they'd been mud wrestling, but I may yet try the darker brown walnut for figures showing more skin-like the riders here-though the black worked reasonably well. The overall effect is a bit darker, but the individual colours are still recognizable. I used a lighter shade out of concern that it might come out too dark, but the pigment is very fine grained and settles in the smaller folds, leaving the original colour only slightly darkened.
#Quickshade ink test skin
The one thing I would change in my undercoating would be to use a darker skin tone for the men. The other paints were solid, unshaded acrylics. Note that I used brown ink on the elephants before coating. Preparation and colouring: Indian elephants often have parts of the face and lower ear with less pigmentation, looking pinkish. I just tried the Minwax Tudor Satin stain (the pigment is black, or nearly so) for the first time, on Old Glory 15mm Indian Elephants.
#Quickshade ink test mac
I use this trick when painting brightly colored figs I want to stay bright, like my Alex Mac army. It encourages the dip to run into the cracks and folds and stay off the raised areas. One workaround for that is to "paint" the fig with Future or other clear acrylic finish before you "dip" them. Which brings up one other pointer, use a lighter shade of paint than you normally would, as the dip will darken things up a bit. I don't use it on my 10mm stuff, dulls them too much. It works on 15mm pretty well, but really works on 28mm figs. Those figs were simply primed black, drybrushed white and then block painted.Īll the shading and "highlighting" is the result of the dip. The walnut works well on figs with a lot of white, tribesmen types etc. Mahogany was dark, but very reddish, and the Antique Walnut was very brown. Yeah, in spite of reading ahead of time that the Tudor was the one to get, I tried a couple other shades first as I hadn't tracked down the Tudor yet. These aren't ancients, but they are an example of the Minwax Tudor at work: This stuff has been used for years as the "Magic Dip" here in the States, was wondering whether or not this ArmyPainter stuff was just repackaged woodstain. You can get one of the darker walnuts for a more brown tone, the Tudor is nearly black. Tudor Satin 360 is the shade for most purposes.
You want Minwax Polyshades "Stain and Polyurethane in 1 Step". The big box stores don't carry the right shade of Minwax but ACE does. Thanks!ĪCE is indeed the place in this instance Dale. I'll have to check out my local Ace hardware store here in the States. The wood stain equivalent does sound like a great alternative. Here I was asking about how well quickshade worked and I now I find I can go to my hardware store, buy some wood stain for 1/4 the cost, and get the same result. The fantasists at Games workshop have just brought out a very good range of washes, I trialled them last night with some Celts and they are good. Go to B+Q, Focus etc and theres tins of the stuff, I pay about £4 a tin and it ranges from clear (matt, satin or gloss) to very dark (good for brown horses) medium pine is a good average one. Rickf wrote:I got in trouble for saying this at Warlords stand at Partizan, but all quick shade really is, wait for it, its furniture varnish!!.
0 kommentar(er)
